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Great news!If your sprinkler timer has failed, or there is an issue with the wiring, it is still possible to turn on the sprinkler zone manually, by opening the valve with your hands.This way you don’t have to run back and forth between the timer/controller and the zone you are watering.Opening the valve manually is very useful if you are checking out a sprinkler system. This is because you can open a sprinkler valve without using the sprinkler timer. This is a huge time saver, especially if the timer happens to be in the basement, in the garage, or another room in the house. This way you don’t have to run back and forth between the timer/controller and the zone you are watering. If you have multiple valves in a manifold, you can open them all in a single location.There are 2 simple methods to open the valve manually: 1.
Open the Manual Bleed ScrewThe first way to open this valve is to open the manual bleed screw. You will notice that the manual bleed screw is located towards the back of the valve near the flow control.
To open the valve manually, twist the manual bleed screw counter-clockwise until the valve opens. It usually doesn’t need to be more than one-half turn. To close the valve turn the manual bleed screw clockwise until the valve closes. Note: opening the manual bleed screw will cause water to leak out, this is normal, and there is no reason to be alarmed.2. Turn the SolenoidThe second way to open the valve is to grasp the solenoid (the black cylinder with the wires attached to it) and turn it approximately one-quarter turn counter-clockwise until the valve opens. To close the valve, turn the solenoid clockwise until the valve closes. This is the method that many prefer because most times when you open the manual bleed screw, it causes water to leak out into the valve box.
If the valve is left on for any period of time, it can start filling the valve box with water. Usually opening the valve by twisting the solenoid doesn’t leak water into the valve box.So the next time your sprinkler system is not working correctly, and you need to apply water, try operating the zone valve manually.Happy sprinkling! Categories Tags, Post navigation.
An in-ground lawn sprinkler system consists of several key components. In the typical system, a water supply pipe from the main water source first passes into a valve box set at ground level, where it is divided into individual underground irrigation zones, each controlled by its own zone valve. 15 Series Plastic Sprinkler Nozzles with Filters. 17 Series Brass Flush Sprinklers. 18 Series Brass Pop-Up Sprinklers. 19 Series Brass Shrub Sprinkler Body. 200 Series Brass Manual Angle Valves. 200RS Series Brass Manual Straight Valves. Sort By Position Name SKU Price 04 6 Set Descending Direction.
Hot telugu kathalu free. Thanks for commenting, this is a very common question and it could have a simple fix.This is either an electrical issue or a hydraulic issue. Most likely it’s an electric issue and is very often just a failed solenoid or a failed splice connection at the valve solenoid.Checking ElectricalI would start by turning on the zone and checking to see if the solenoid is activated. The best way to check without using electrical equipment is to place your hand on the solenoid and see if you feel it vibrating/buzzing. Some solenoids make a humming sound, but not all, so by placing your hand on the solenoid you should be able to tell if it is activated. If you feel nothing than the solenoid is not activated, the issue is electrical, and you should check the splice connection, and then replace the solenoid if you have determined the wiring to be good.
This might require more advanced tools & the help of a professional.Checking HydraulicsIf you feel the solenoid vibrating/buzzing, then the electrical path to the valve is good, and the issue is likely with the valve diaphragm, or with the solenoid plunger. Remove the solenoid and check to see that there is no debris clogging it. Next, check to be sure that the valve is not closed with the manual flow control. The manual flow control is a feature of certain valves, and perhaps not your model, so check to see if there is a handle on the top, and if so, make sure it is turned all the way open.
Next, remove the top of the valve and check for debris inside the valve that could be preventing the diaphragm from opening. You can easily replace the diaphragm if needed.I recommend buying a replacement valve (not just the parts), and using the new valve as replacement parts.
A new valve will come with everything you will need to fix failures.Good luck, and let us know if you need any additional assistance.
'An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.' Nowhere is this truer than with irrigation valves.
They are highly reliableand will last for years if you properly care for them. But valves can bedifficult to troubleshoot because many of the parts that could be causingthe problems are hidden. By learning how irrigation valves work, you cantroubleshoot almost any problem.Proper valve troubleshooting starts with a few basic questions:.
Is the irrigation controller plugged in and properly programmed?. Is the master water supply turned on?. Is water present to the valve?. Is the flow-control handle open?.
Is sufficient water pressure and flow available?. Is the pump working?Valves 101Before troubleshooting begins, you must understand how irrigation valveswork.
Valves control the flow of water to sprinklers and can be mechanical,hydraulic, electric or a hybrid-know what kind you're dealing with.A valve stays closed because the surface area above the diaphragm is abouttwo-and-half times larger than the pressurized surface area below thediaphragm. The difference causes a greater force above the diaphragm thanbelow it. The valve traps the water, which fills the upper chamber. Thevalve will open only when the force above the diaphragm has been relieved.This will happen electrically when the controller energizes the solenoid ormanually when you use the manual bleed.The solenoid is a coil of electrical wire that, when charged with anelectrical current from the controller, creates a magnetic force and pullsup a small, metal plunger inside the valve. As the plunger rises, it dumpswater from the chamber above the diaphragm to a lower (downstream) pressurearea.
This reduces the force above the diaphragm and the valve opens.To close a valve, the irrigation controller stops sending an electricalcurrent to the solenoid. As the current terminates, the solenoid drops theplunger and stops the flow of water from above the diaphragm. The pressureabove the diaphragm builds to a force greater than the pressure below thediaphragm, and the valve closes.This also occurs when you operate the valve manually. When you open themanual bleed screw, you relieve the force above the diaphragm either to theatmosphere or to the downstream side of the valve.Electricity and WaterA variety of conditions can cause an irrigation valve to malfunction. Butdon't overlook the obvious. If the valve will not open, make sure you haveturned on the water supply.
You can check to make sure you have a watersupply by manually opening or 'bleeding' the valve.There are two types of manual-bleed devices. The most common is an externalmanual bleed. It usually consists of a small knob on top of the valvebonnet that bleeds-or relieves-the water above the diaphragm. The secondtype of manual-bleed device is an internal manual bleed.
It is usually alever on the solenoid or the solenoid itself. When you turn on the lever oractivate the solenoid, water pressure above the diaphragm bleeds to thedownstream side of the valve. Turn the external manual-bleed screw oroperate the internal manual bleed and check for water flow. Be aware thatsome valves incorporate both external and internal manual-bleed systems.
Ifthere is still no water flow to the valve, check the PVC line for breaks.Another common problem is lack of electrical signal (voltage) to the valve.To determine if the valve is receiving power, use a volt-ohm meter. From the irrigation controller, manually turn on the station you are troubleshooting.With the volt-ohm meter, check the voltage between the ground and thecontroller-station terminal. Your reading should be 24 volts AC (VAC). Ifit is not 24 VAC, you need to determine the cause-which is usually a blownfuse in the controller or in the controller's transformer.While you are at the controller, check the entire irrigation program. Inmany cases, a valve will not operate properly because of faulty controllerprogramming.If your meter reads 24 VAC at the controller station wires, check the zonein question to make sure it's operating. Make sure that the controller hasa programmed start time and run time and that the 'days-to-run' setting isprogrammed.
Though this may seem elementary, an improperly programmedcontroller is one of the most common causes of valve malfunction-andusually the largest source of customer complaints.If the controller is working properly, check the voltage to the solenoid.With the controller turned off, skin the insulation off the two wiresrunning from the valve solenoid to the splice. Make these cuts as close tothe splice as possible.
Attach a voltmeter to the wire running from thesplice-the voltage should read zero.Manually operate the irrigation controller, and check that you arereceiving 24 VAC. It is normal to experience some voltage loss at thevalve, but if the volt-ohm meter reads less than 20 VAC, the field wireshave a problem.
You need to find the source of this problem or replace thewires.After completing this test, cut out the original splice, and reconnect thewires. It's important to leave enough wire to make the splice.ContaminationBecause of its direct connection to piping from the main water line, avalve is susceptible to contamination from dirt and debris, especially ifyou use non-potable or effluent water. To reduce the risk of contamination,most irrigation valves have a filter or screen to keep dirt out of the areaabove the diaphragm and the solenoid area.Dirt and debris trapped in the valve may cause it to 'weep.' The telltalesign of a weeping valve is excessive puddling at the lowest sprinkler afterthe valves have shut off.To check for excessive dirt, debris or algae buildup, turn the water off,remove the valve bonnet, and check the screens for contamination.
Somevalves have filter screens directly below the solenoid, which can beremoved with a small screwdriver or coin. Flush the screens with water toremove any debris.This is also a good time to check the diaphragm and valve seat for debris,wear or deterioration (note that some valves have these two componentsmolded into one piece). The diaphragm, which is a large, rubber-like,flexible disc, is subject to deterioration. It can be nicked or torn by atrapped pebble or a build-up of grit.The valve seat is the lower sealing surface in the valve body. Inspect itfor nicks by running your finger over the lip of the valve seat.
Replacethe valve body if the valve seat is damaged. Check the diaphragm and thevalve seat for cracks and wear. Replace them if they show signs of wear ordeterioration. Reassemble the valve, turn on the water, and manuallyoperate the irrigation controller to make sure everything is workingproperly.SolenoidsIf you have checked the water supply, the power supply and the diaphragmand valve seat, and the valve is still malfunctioning, usually the onlypossibility left is a faulty solenoid.With the water turned off, unscrew the solenoid from the bonnet of thevalve.
Be careful not to lose the plunger or the small spring, which helpsforce the solenoid plunger downward.Inspect the solenoid plunger. The plunger is the small, metal piston with arubber base inside the solenoid housing. The plunger must be clean and freeof any debris.To check the operation of the solenoid, manually turn on the valve or zonefrom the irrigation controller.
If it's working, the solenoid plunger willbe pulled into the solenoid body.Some irrigation-equipment manufacturers have designed 'captive' solenoidplungers. A small piece of plastic holds these types of plungers in thesolenoid housing. If the valve has a captured solenoid, you will hear asharp clicking sound when the solenoid energizes. If the solenoid is notworking properly or if the solenoid plunger does not move freely in thesolenoid housing, clean and retest it.
If it is still not working, replacethe solenoid.Also, with the solenoid removed, check the small hole in the bonnet thatallows water to pass from above the diaphragm to the downstream side of thevalve. Check the opening with a paper clip or small piece of wire. It isimportant not to enlarge this hole because it controls the opening andclosing speed of the valve.By following these suggestions, you'll be able to save time and quickly getto the root of the problem when valve troubles occur.Laurie Berry is valve product manager with Rain Bird Sales Inc.
Great news!If your sprinkler timer has failed, or there is an issue with the wiring, it is still possible to turn on the sprinkler zone manually, by opening the valve with your hands.This way you don’t have to run back and forth between the timer/controller and the zone you are watering.Opening the valve manually is very useful if you are checking out a sprinkler system. This is because you can open a sprinkler valve without using the sprinkler timer. This is a huge time saver, especially if the timer happens to be in the basement, in the garage, or another room in the house. This way you don’t have to run back and forth between the timer/controller and the zone you are watering. If you have multiple valves in a manifold, you can open them all in a single location.There are 2 simple methods to open the valve manually: 1.
Open the Manual Bleed ScrewThe first way to open this valve is to open the manual bleed screw. You will notice that the manual bleed screw is located towards the back of the valve near the flow control.
To open the valve manually, twist the manual bleed screw counter-clockwise until the valve opens. It usually doesn’t need to be more than one-half turn. To close the valve turn the manual bleed screw clockwise until the valve closes. Note: opening the manual bleed screw will cause water to leak out, this is normal, and there is no reason to be alarmed.2. Turn the SolenoidThe second way to open the valve is to grasp the solenoid (the black cylinder with the wires attached to it) and turn it approximately one-quarter turn counter-clockwise until the valve opens. To close the valve, turn the solenoid clockwise until the valve closes. This is the method that many prefer because most times when you open the manual bleed screw, it causes water to leak out into the valve box.
If the valve is left on for any period of time, it can start filling the valve box with water. Usually opening the valve by twisting the solenoid doesn’t leak water into the valve box.So the next time your sprinkler system is not working correctly, and you need to apply water, try operating the zone valve manually.Happy sprinkling! Categories Tags, Post navigation.
An in-ground lawn sprinkler system consists of several key components. In the typical system, a water supply pipe from the main water source first passes into a valve box set at ground level, where it is divided into individual underground irrigation zones, each controlled by its own zone valve. 15 Series Plastic Sprinkler Nozzles with Filters. 17 Series Brass Flush Sprinklers. 18 Series Brass Pop-Up Sprinklers. 19 Series Brass Shrub Sprinkler Body. 200 Series Brass Manual Angle Valves. 200RS Series Brass Manual Straight Valves. Sort By Position Name SKU Price 04 6 Set Descending Direction.
Hot telugu kathalu free. Thanks for commenting, this is a very common question and it could have a simple fix.This is either an electrical issue or a hydraulic issue. Most likely it’s an electric issue and is very often just a failed solenoid or a failed splice connection at the valve solenoid.Checking ElectricalI would start by turning on the zone and checking to see if the solenoid is activated. The best way to check without using electrical equipment is to place your hand on the solenoid and see if you feel it vibrating/buzzing. Some solenoids make a humming sound, but not all, so by placing your hand on the solenoid you should be able to tell if it is activated. If you feel nothing than the solenoid is not activated, the issue is electrical, and you should check the splice connection, and then replace the solenoid if you have determined the wiring to be good.
This might require more advanced tools & the help of a professional.Checking HydraulicsIf you feel the solenoid vibrating/buzzing, then the electrical path to the valve is good, and the issue is likely with the valve diaphragm, or with the solenoid plunger. Remove the solenoid and check to see that there is no debris clogging it. Next, check to be sure that the valve is not closed with the manual flow control. The manual flow control is a feature of certain valves, and perhaps not your model, so check to see if there is a handle on the top, and if so, make sure it is turned all the way open.
Next, remove the top of the valve and check for debris inside the valve that could be preventing the diaphragm from opening. You can easily replace the diaphragm if needed.I recommend buying a replacement valve (not just the parts), and using the new valve as replacement parts.
A new valve will come with everything you will need to fix failures.Good luck, and let us know if you need any additional assistance.
\'An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.\' Nowhere is this truer than with irrigation valves.
They are highly reliableand will last for years if you properly care for them. But valves can bedifficult to troubleshoot because many of the parts that could be causingthe problems are hidden. By learning how irrigation valves work, you cantroubleshoot almost any problem.Proper valve troubleshooting starts with a few basic questions:.
Is the irrigation controller plugged in and properly programmed?. Is the master water supply turned on?. Is water present to the valve?. Is the flow-control handle open?.
Is sufficient water pressure and flow available?. Is the pump working?Valves 101Before troubleshooting begins, you must understand how irrigation valveswork.
Valves control the flow of water to sprinklers and can be mechanical,hydraulic, electric or a hybrid-know what kind you\'re dealing with.A valve stays closed because the surface area above the diaphragm is abouttwo-and-half times larger than the pressurized surface area below thediaphragm. The difference causes a greater force above the diaphragm thanbelow it. The valve traps the water, which fills the upper chamber. Thevalve will open only when the force above the diaphragm has been relieved.This will happen electrically when the controller energizes the solenoid ormanually when you use the manual bleed.The solenoid is a coil of electrical wire that, when charged with anelectrical current from the controller, creates a magnetic force and pullsup a small, metal plunger inside the valve. As the plunger rises, it dumpswater from the chamber above the diaphragm to a lower (downstream) pressurearea.
This reduces the force above the diaphragm and the valve opens.To close a valve, the irrigation controller stops sending an electricalcurrent to the solenoid. As the current terminates, the solenoid drops theplunger and stops the flow of water from above the diaphragm. The pressureabove the diaphragm builds to a force greater than the pressure below thediaphragm, and the valve closes.This also occurs when you operate the valve manually. When you open themanual bleed screw, you relieve the force above the diaphragm either to theatmosphere or to the downstream side of the valve.Electricity and WaterA variety of conditions can cause an irrigation valve to malfunction. Butdon\'t overlook the obvious. If the valve will not open, make sure you haveturned on the water supply.
You can check to make sure you have a watersupply by manually opening or \'bleeding\' the valve.There are two types of manual-bleed devices. The most common is an externalmanual bleed. It usually consists of a small knob on top of the valvebonnet that bleeds-or relieves-the water above the diaphragm. The secondtype of manual-bleed device is an internal manual bleed.
It is usually alever on the solenoid or the solenoid itself. When you turn on the lever oractivate the solenoid, water pressure above the diaphragm bleeds to thedownstream side of the valve. Turn the external manual-bleed screw oroperate the internal manual bleed and check for water flow. Be aware thatsome valves incorporate both external and internal manual-bleed systems.
Ifthere is still no water flow to the valve, check the PVC line for breaks.Another common problem is lack of electrical signal (voltage) to the valve.To determine if the valve is receiving power, use a volt-ohm meter. From the irrigation controller, manually turn on the station you are troubleshooting.With the volt-ohm meter, check the voltage between the ground and thecontroller-station terminal. Your reading should be 24 volts AC (VAC). Ifit is not 24 VAC, you need to determine the cause-which is usually a blownfuse in the controller or in the controller\'s transformer.While you are at the controller, check the entire irrigation program. Inmany cases, a valve will not operate properly because of faulty controllerprogramming.If your meter reads 24 VAC at the controller station wires, check the zonein question to make sure it\'s operating. Make sure that the controller hasa programmed start time and run time and that the \'days-to-run\' setting isprogrammed.
Though this may seem elementary, an improperly programmedcontroller is one of the most common causes of valve malfunction-andusually the largest source of customer complaints.If the controller is working properly, check the voltage to the solenoid.With the controller turned off, skin the insulation off the two wiresrunning from the valve solenoid to the splice. Make these cuts as close tothe splice as possible.
Attach a voltmeter to the wire running from thesplice-the voltage should read zero.Manually operate the irrigation controller, and check that you arereceiving 24 VAC. It is normal to experience some voltage loss at thevalve, but if the volt-ohm meter reads less than 20 VAC, the field wireshave a problem.
You need to find the source of this problem or replace thewires.After completing this test, cut out the original splice, and reconnect thewires. It\'s important to leave enough wire to make the splice.ContaminationBecause of its direct connection to piping from the main water line, avalve is susceptible to contamination from dirt and debris, especially ifyou use non-potable or effluent water. To reduce the risk of contamination,most irrigation valves have a filter or screen to keep dirt out of the areaabove the diaphragm and the solenoid area.Dirt and debris trapped in the valve may cause it to \'weep.\' The telltalesign of a weeping valve is excessive puddling at the lowest sprinkler afterthe valves have shut off.To check for excessive dirt, debris or algae buildup, turn the water off,remove the valve bonnet, and check the screens for contamination.
Somevalves have filter screens directly below the solenoid, which can beremoved with a small screwdriver or coin. Flush the screens with water toremove any debris.This is also a good time to check the diaphragm and valve seat for debris,wear or deterioration (note that some valves have these two componentsmolded into one piece). The diaphragm, which is a large, rubber-like,flexible disc, is subject to deterioration. It can be nicked or torn by atrapped pebble or a build-up of grit.The valve seat is the lower sealing surface in the valve body. Inspect itfor nicks by running your finger over the lip of the valve seat.
Replacethe valve body if the valve seat is damaged. Check the diaphragm and thevalve seat for cracks and wear. Replace them if they show signs of wear ordeterioration. Reassemble the valve, turn on the water, and manuallyoperate the irrigation controller to make sure everything is workingproperly.SolenoidsIf you have checked the water supply, the power supply and the diaphragmand valve seat, and the valve is still malfunctioning, usually the onlypossibility left is a faulty solenoid.With the water turned off, unscrew the solenoid from the bonnet of thevalve.
Be careful not to lose the plunger or the small spring, which helpsforce the solenoid plunger downward.Inspect the solenoid plunger. The plunger is the small, metal piston with arubber base inside the solenoid housing. The plunger must be clean and freeof any debris.To check the operation of the solenoid, manually turn on the valve or zonefrom the irrigation controller.
If it\'s working, the solenoid plunger willbe pulled into the solenoid body.Some irrigation-equipment manufacturers have designed \'captive\' solenoidplungers. A small piece of plastic holds these types of plungers in thesolenoid housing. If the valve has a captured solenoid, you will hear asharp clicking sound when the solenoid energizes. If the solenoid is notworking properly or if the solenoid plunger does not move freely in thesolenoid housing, clean and retest it.
If it is still not working, replacethe solenoid.Also, with the solenoid removed, check the small hole in the bonnet thatallows water to pass from above the diaphragm to the downstream side of thevalve. Check the opening with a paper clip or small piece of wire. It isimportant not to enlarge this hole because it controls the opening andclosing speed of the valve.By following these suggestions, you\'ll be able to save time and quickly getto the root of the problem when valve troubles occur.Laurie Berry is valve product manager with Rain Bird Sales Inc.
...'>Champion Sprinkler Valve Manual(09.04.2020)Great news!If your sprinkler timer has failed, or there is an issue with the wiring, it is still possible to turn on the sprinkler zone manually, by opening the valve with your hands.This way you don’t have to run back and forth between the timer/controller and the zone you are watering.Opening the valve manually is very useful if you are checking out a sprinkler system. This is because you can open a sprinkler valve without using the sprinkler timer. This is a huge time saver, especially if the timer happens to be in the basement, in the garage, or another room in the house. This way you don’t have to run back and forth between the timer/controller and the zone you are watering. If you have multiple valves in a manifold, you can open them all in a single location.There are 2 simple methods to open the valve manually: 1.
Open the Manual Bleed ScrewThe first way to open this valve is to open the manual bleed screw. You will notice that the manual bleed screw is located towards the back of the valve near the flow control.
To open the valve manually, twist the manual bleed screw counter-clockwise until the valve opens. It usually doesn’t need to be more than one-half turn. To close the valve turn the manual bleed screw clockwise until the valve closes. Note: opening the manual bleed screw will cause water to leak out, this is normal, and there is no reason to be alarmed.2. Turn the SolenoidThe second way to open the valve is to grasp the solenoid (the black cylinder with the wires attached to it) and turn it approximately one-quarter turn counter-clockwise until the valve opens. To close the valve, turn the solenoid clockwise until the valve closes. This is the method that many prefer because most times when you open the manual bleed screw, it causes water to leak out into the valve box.
If the valve is left on for any period of time, it can start filling the valve box with water. Usually opening the valve by twisting the solenoid doesn’t leak water into the valve box.So the next time your sprinkler system is not working correctly, and you need to apply water, try operating the zone valve manually.Happy sprinkling! Categories Tags, Post navigation.
An in-ground lawn sprinkler system consists of several key components. In the typical system, a water supply pipe from the main water source first passes into a valve box set at ground level, where it is divided into individual underground irrigation zones, each controlled by its own zone valve. 15 Series Plastic Sprinkler Nozzles with Filters. 17 Series Brass Flush Sprinklers. 18 Series Brass Pop-Up Sprinklers. 19 Series Brass Shrub Sprinkler Body. 200 Series Brass Manual Angle Valves. 200RS Series Brass Manual Straight Valves. Sort By Position Name SKU Price 04 6 Set Descending Direction.
Hot telugu kathalu free. Thanks for commenting, this is a very common question and it could have a simple fix.This is either an electrical issue or a hydraulic issue. Most likely it’s an electric issue and is very often just a failed solenoid or a failed splice connection at the valve solenoid.Checking ElectricalI would start by turning on the zone and checking to see if the solenoid is activated. The best way to check without using electrical equipment is to place your hand on the solenoid and see if you feel it vibrating/buzzing. Some solenoids make a humming sound, but not all, so by placing your hand on the solenoid you should be able to tell if it is activated. If you feel nothing than the solenoid is not activated, the issue is electrical, and you should check the splice connection, and then replace the solenoid if you have determined the wiring to be good.
This might require more advanced tools & the help of a professional.Checking HydraulicsIf you feel the solenoid vibrating/buzzing, then the electrical path to the valve is good, and the issue is likely with the valve diaphragm, or with the solenoid plunger. Remove the solenoid and check to see that there is no debris clogging it. Next, check to be sure that the valve is not closed with the manual flow control. The manual flow control is a feature of certain valves, and perhaps not your model, so check to see if there is a handle on the top, and if so, make sure it is turned all the way open.
Next, remove the top of the valve and check for debris inside the valve that could be preventing the diaphragm from opening. You can easily replace the diaphragm if needed.I recommend buying a replacement valve (not just the parts), and using the new valve as replacement parts.
A new valve will come with everything you will need to fix failures.Good luck, and let us know if you need any additional assistance.
\'An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.\' Nowhere is this truer than with irrigation valves.
They are highly reliableand will last for years if you properly care for them. But valves can bedifficult to troubleshoot because many of the parts that could be causingthe problems are hidden. By learning how irrigation valves work, you cantroubleshoot almost any problem.Proper valve troubleshooting starts with a few basic questions:.
Is the irrigation controller plugged in and properly programmed?. Is the master water supply turned on?. Is water present to the valve?. Is the flow-control handle open?.
Is sufficient water pressure and flow available?. Is the pump working?Valves 101Before troubleshooting begins, you must understand how irrigation valveswork.
Valves control the flow of water to sprinklers and can be mechanical,hydraulic, electric or a hybrid-know what kind you\'re dealing with.A valve stays closed because the surface area above the diaphragm is abouttwo-and-half times larger than the pressurized surface area below thediaphragm. The difference causes a greater force above the diaphragm thanbelow it. The valve traps the water, which fills the upper chamber. Thevalve will open only when the force above the diaphragm has been relieved.This will happen electrically when the controller energizes the solenoid ormanually when you use the manual bleed.The solenoid is a coil of electrical wire that, when charged with anelectrical current from the controller, creates a magnetic force and pullsup a small, metal plunger inside the valve. As the plunger rises, it dumpswater from the chamber above the diaphragm to a lower (downstream) pressurearea.
This reduces the force above the diaphragm and the valve opens.To close a valve, the irrigation controller stops sending an electricalcurrent to the solenoid. As the current terminates, the solenoid drops theplunger and stops the flow of water from above the diaphragm. The pressureabove the diaphragm builds to a force greater than the pressure below thediaphragm, and the valve closes.This also occurs when you operate the valve manually. When you open themanual bleed screw, you relieve the force above the diaphragm either to theatmosphere or to the downstream side of the valve.Electricity and WaterA variety of conditions can cause an irrigation valve to malfunction. Butdon\'t overlook the obvious. If the valve will not open, make sure you haveturned on the water supply.
You can check to make sure you have a watersupply by manually opening or \'bleeding\' the valve.There are two types of manual-bleed devices. The most common is an externalmanual bleed. It usually consists of a small knob on top of the valvebonnet that bleeds-or relieves-the water above the diaphragm. The secondtype of manual-bleed device is an internal manual bleed.
It is usually alever on the solenoid or the solenoid itself. When you turn on the lever oractivate the solenoid, water pressure above the diaphragm bleeds to thedownstream side of the valve. Turn the external manual-bleed screw oroperate the internal manual bleed and check for water flow. Be aware thatsome valves incorporate both external and internal manual-bleed systems.
Ifthere is still no water flow to the valve, check the PVC line for breaks.Another common problem is lack of electrical signal (voltage) to the valve.To determine if the valve is receiving power, use a volt-ohm meter. From the irrigation controller, manually turn on the station you are troubleshooting.With the volt-ohm meter, check the voltage between the ground and thecontroller-station terminal. Your reading should be 24 volts AC (VAC). Ifit is not 24 VAC, you need to determine the cause-which is usually a blownfuse in the controller or in the controller\'s transformer.While you are at the controller, check the entire irrigation program. Inmany cases, a valve will not operate properly because of faulty controllerprogramming.If your meter reads 24 VAC at the controller station wires, check the zonein question to make sure it\'s operating. Make sure that the controller hasa programmed start time and run time and that the \'days-to-run\' setting isprogrammed.
Though this may seem elementary, an improperly programmedcontroller is one of the most common causes of valve malfunction-andusually the largest source of customer complaints.If the controller is working properly, check the voltage to the solenoid.With the controller turned off, skin the insulation off the two wiresrunning from the valve solenoid to the splice. Make these cuts as close tothe splice as possible.
Attach a voltmeter to the wire running from thesplice-the voltage should read zero.Manually operate the irrigation controller, and check that you arereceiving 24 VAC. It is normal to experience some voltage loss at thevalve, but if the volt-ohm meter reads less than 20 VAC, the field wireshave a problem.
You need to find the source of this problem or replace thewires.After completing this test, cut out the original splice, and reconnect thewires. It\'s important to leave enough wire to make the splice.ContaminationBecause of its direct connection to piping from the main water line, avalve is susceptible to contamination from dirt and debris, especially ifyou use non-potable or effluent water. To reduce the risk of contamination,most irrigation valves have a filter or screen to keep dirt out of the areaabove the diaphragm and the solenoid area.Dirt and debris trapped in the valve may cause it to \'weep.\' The telltalesign of a weeping valve is excessive puddling at the lowest sprinkler afterthe valves have shut off.To check for excessive dirt, debris or algae buildup, turn the water off,remove the valve bonnet, and check the screens for contamination.
Somevalves have filter screens directly below the solenoid, which can beremoved with a small screwdriver or coin. Flush the screens with water toremove any debris.This is also a good time to check the diaphragm and valve seat for debris,wear or deterioration (note that some valves have these two componentsmolded into one piece). The diaphragm, which is a large, rubber-like,flexible disc, is subject to deterioration. It can be nicked or torn by atrapped pebble or a build-up of grit.The valve seat is the lower sealing surface in the valve body. Inspect itfor nicks by running your finger over the lip of the valve seat.
Replacethe valve body if the valve seat is damaged. Check the diaphragm and thevalve seat for cracks and wear. Replace them if they show signs of wear ordeterioration. Reassemble the valve, turn on the water, and manuallyoperate the irrigation controller to make sure everything is workingproperly.SolenoidsIf you have checked the water supply, the power supply and the diaphragmand valve seat, and the valve is still malfunctioning, usually the onlypossibility left is a faulty solenoid.With the water turned off, unscrew the solenoid from the bonnet of thevalve.
Be careful not to lose the plunger or the small spring, which helpsforce the solenoid plunger downward.Inspect the solenoid plunger. The plunger is the small, metal piston with arubber base inside the solenoid housing. The plunger must be clean and freeof any debris.To check the operation of the solenoid, manually turn on the valve or zonefrom the irrigation controller.
If it\'s working, the solenoid plunger willbe pulled into the solenoid body.Some irrigation-equipment manufacturers have designed \'captive\' solenoidplungers. A small piece of plastic holds these types of plungers in thesolenoid housing. If the valve has a captured solenoid, you will hear asharp clicking sound when the solenoid energizes. If the solenoid is notworking properly or if the solenoid plunger does not move freely in thesolenoid housing, clean and retest it.
If it is still not working, replacethe solenoid.Also, with the solenoid removed, check the small hole in the bonnet thatallows water to pass from above the diaphragm to the downstream side of thevalve. Check the opening with a paper clip or small piece of wire. It isimportant not to enlarge this hole because it controls the opening andclosing speed of the valve.By following these suggestions, you\'ll be able to save time and quickly getto the root of the problem when valve troubles occur.Laurie Berry is valve product manager with Rain Bird Sales Inc.
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